Pro Tips, News & Events

Smoking, overheating, and power loss on diesel engines—especially tractors and skid steers that idle a lot—often trace back to carbon buildup. In this guide, we’ll take you through a six-step cleaning process: get the machine ready, open up access, scrape or blast away heavy deposits, run a chemical cleaner through, check the components, and button it back up. We’ll also look at where carbon collects (valves, pistons, EGR, turbo), help you decide when a cleanout is enough and when you need to replace parts instead, and give you some solid habits to keep carbon from piling up again—cut back on idling, use good fuel, and keep up with filter changes. One more thing: on Tier 4 machines, pull those fault codes first. If the DPF is plugged or the turbo is shot, cleaning isn’t going to fix it.

A lawn mower pull cord stuck can be frustrating. Our guide simplifies the fix. Use our symptom chart to diagnose the cause, then follow easy steps to clear a blocked blade, fix hydrolock, or repair the recoil starter.

Whether you’re troubleshooting a lawn tractor that won’t start or replacing a worn-out switch, understanding how your ignition switch works is essential. This guide walks you through everything you need to know about the 5-pole ignition switch diagram, from reading terminal labels and wiring connections to testing and diagnosing common failures.

Knowing your Cub Cadet mower’s year is key for buying the right parts. This guide shows you where to find the serial number on any Cub Cadet and how to decode it to find the exact manufacturing date for repairs and maintenance.

If you’re dealing with rough idle, hard starting, hesitation, or stalling, the usual suspect on a gas engine is unmetered air sneaking in. On a turbo diesel, the same symptoms are more likely an intake or boost leak. In this guide, we’ll go over the common signs, typical causes like cracked hoses and bad gaskets, and how to tell the difference between a vacuum leak and a boost leak. We’ll also cover some hands-on diagnostic steps—look things over visually, listen for air hissing, do a smoke test at 0.5–2 psi, and scan the data for clues. The sooner you catch it, the less you’ll have to deal with worsening performance, higher fuel consumption, and pricey downtime. Keep it simple and check the easy stuff first before jumping to worst-case conclusions.

A mower drive belt is an essential component for a smooth mowing experience. Once it fails, it may damage other components and lead to costly repairs. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the Hustler Raptor drive belt diagram and how you can replace your belt on your own. Let’s get started!

This guide explains the Kohler throttle linkage diagram for popular engines like the 7000 Series and Courage 20. We cover how to properly install the linkage, perform a governor adjustment, and fix common problems like engine surging.

When should I cut my grass? That’s a question many mower beginners ask. As the expert says, the best time to mow your grass is late afternoon or early morning. Avoid cutting in the early morning when your grass is wet with dew or mowing grass after rain. A wise solution is to wait until your grass gets as dry as possible. If you have to mow in damp conditions, follow the tips mentioned above to minimize the damage.

When replacing intake and exhaust valves on off-road engines, mechanics typically replace them as a set along with springs, spring seats, stem seals, and locks—components you’ll find in a valve repair kit. This guide covers what intake and exhaust valves do, why the exhaust valve fails sooner under high heat, and which parts share the same wear cycle. Learn to recognize signs like compression loss, blue smoke, and valve train noise, and understand why matched replacement reduces repeat labor. Always verify engine model and valve dimensions before ordering—similar engines can use different stem diameters, spring rates, or seal designs.

Confused about what your Massey Ferguson tractor dash warning lights mean? Our detailed guide explains every symbol and color, from critical red alerts like oil pressure to simple green indicators, so you can act fast and avoid downtime.

A serpentine belt, aka alternator belt before the mid-1990s, is a critical component that loops around various pulleys on the engine. It is designed to drive all engine components and accessories at once on most modern vehicles. A serpentine belt typically powers accessories, including the alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor and water pump. In some cases, the engine may have a separate belt for one or more components in addition to the primary serpentine belt. These belts are powered by the engine’s crankshaft and play a crucial role in keeping engine-driven systems functioning.

ISO 32 hydraulic oil is a lower-viscosity fluid that flows readily in cooler conditions, which makes it a popular choice for machines that need quick response at startup. This guide covers what ISO 32 actually is, when to choose it over ISO 46, and how temperature, system design, and operating load come into play when selecting the right fluid. We’ll look at the key benefits—better cold-weather flow, faster hydraulic response, and solid wear protection—along with some common pitfalls, like mixing different viscosity grades or using ISO 32 in systems that combine transmission and hydraulic functions. One rule always applies: check your service manual first. The right fluid, matched to both your machine and your climate, helps protect pumps, valves, and cylinders while keeping performance consistent over the long haul.