Pro Tips, News & Events

Inner and outer tie rod: which one is worn out? The outer tie rod usually goes first—it’s exposed to mud, water, and rocks. The inner end sits tucked under a rubber boot, so it lasts longer. This guide helps you figure out which one is causing your steering trouble without guessing and changing the wrong part. Learn the 3-and-9 o’clock test to check for play, how to inspect both joints, and which symptoms point to each failure—clunking over bumps usually means outer, while vague steering or shimmy at speed points to inner. Replace both sides together, count the turns, and always get a wheel alignment after the job.

If your machine’s battery keeps dying, a parasitic draw is the likely culprit. This guide explains the signs and shows you how to test for parasitic draw with a multimeter. Follow our simple steps to find the faulty circuit yourself.

Without a differential, driving would be extremely difficult.The role of differentials is to allow the wheels on the same axle to rotate at different speeds. This is particularly important in turns, as the outer wheels need to rotate faster than the inner wheels, since they have a greater distance to cover in the same amount of time. Without a differential, the inner wheel would lose traction and could cause the vehicle to skid. The tyres and drivetrain would be under high stress, not to mention the loss of control in corners.

This guide details common transmission speed sensor symptoms like rough shifting, power loss, and incorrect speedometer readings. A faulty sensor sends bad data, leading to poor performance and potential transmission damage. Learn what causes failure and why a quick fix is crucial.

Carburetor vs Fuel Injection: What Works Best for Your Operation? Fuel injection starts easily in the cold, burns less fuel, and doesn’t care about heat, cold, or heavy loads. But if you’d rather keep repairs cheap and simple, a carburetor is still a solid call. Fuel injection adapts better to changes in temperature and load. Carburetors are easier to clean and fix with hand tools. EFI costs more up front but saves you trouble later. Carbs are cheaper and simpler, though they need more looking after. What’s best depends on your machine, what you’re willing to spend, and how much fussing you’re okay with. In maintenance, this choice comes down to uptime, repair bills, and keeping the machine ready to go when you are.

Here are 11 common engine knocking causes:
Low-octane or poor fuel quality: Octane is a measurement that tells you how resistant a fuel is to abnormal combustion. If you use a lower octane than recommended by your vehicle owner’s manual, the fuel can pre-ignite and cause engine knock.
Low motor oil levels or poor oil quality: Insufficient or degraded engine oil can increase friction and heat inside the engine. Higher operating temperatures can contribute to abnormal combustion and increase the possibility of knocking.
Excessive carbon buildup: Gasoline contains carbon, which can leave deposits and buildup on critical engine components like the combustion chamber surfaces. Over time, carbon deposits accumulate on pistons and valves, reducing space inside the combustion chamber and raising pressure and heat. Then, pre-ignition and knocking become likely

Uneven cuts and shaking are signs your deck needs help. This John Deere mower deck repair guide shows you how to fix cracked spindle mounts, replace worn pulleys and belts, and sharpen blades for a better cut and longer equipment life.

SPN 636 FMI2 signals a fault in the crankshaft position sensor circuit. The FMI2 suggests that the electronic control module (ECM) has detected an abnormal signal from the sensor, which could lead to poor engine performance, misfires, or difficulty starting the engine. In this guide, we’ll dive into the symptoms, causes and easy fixes of the error code.

Bad ignition switch symptoms: how to tell if it’s failing? No crank?No crank? Starts then stalls? The catch is, a weak battery, a starter on its last leg, or a wiring glitch can pull off the same act. This guide takes you through the usual warning signs—no crank, starts and stalls, dash power cutting in and out, a key that doesn’t turn smoothly, or power suddenly returning when you move the key—and helps you sort out whether it’s the switch, the battery, or the starter. We’ll also walk through what to check before you replace anything: battery voltage, terminal connections, ground straps, fuses, and the connector for heat damage or corrosion. Look at the whole pattern—one symptom alone doesn’t tell the whole story.

2026 Construction Survival Guide: Why Cost-Cutting Can Be Risky. If you’re still using 2025 cost baselines for parts or downtime projections, you’re already behind. Input prices jumped 6.2% in early 2026 alone—more than the previous three years combined. Tariffs are adding an invisible tax on hydraulics, steel, and aluminum. Meanwhile, the industry is short 349,000 workers. Delaying a repair today doesn’t save money—it locks you into higher prices tomorrow. Smart fleet owners treat construction equipment maintenance as a financial survival strategy, not just an expense. The shift to quality aftermarket parts helps bypass OEM markups, reset life cycle costs, and protect margins. The question isn’t whether to adapt—it’s whether you can afford not to.

This guide explains how to read V-belt numbers to ensure you buy the correct replacement. We cover standard, wedge, and metric belt codes, what the ‘X’ suffix means, and how to measure a belt if the number is worn off.

When summer is in full swing, nobody wants to climb into the driver’s seat and drive around sweating like a pig. Picture being on a long trip in a heavy-duty truck or a car to another place and your A/C suddenly blowing warm air, with the temperature quickly reaching 150 degrees. That’s freaking daunting, right? In this guide, we’ll walk you through why your car AC blowing hot air and how you can troubleshoot the unit and fix it yourself before taking it to your local mechanic.